I’m still waiting for the tank protector to arrive. I have now plenty time to continue on the fuel tank. I removed all hoses and covers and have taken the sender unit out. I would aspect much more dirt on the strainer. Even the internal of the tank was pretty clean.
On the next step I have spent a number of hours to clean the outside of the tank from rust. Then I sprayed a couple of layers Dinitrol RC900 rust converter on.
I had a good opportunity to install the balance pipe which is required for the auxiliary Front runner tank which I planned to install very soon. Also I have installed all the fittings for the tank and a new strainer for the pick-up pipe.
After a couple of days to let the rust converter work in to the metal I have painted the outside of the tank with chassis lack a couple of times.
At last I have sprayed Dinitrol 3125 HS over the paint which is a corrosion prevention fluid with has an excellent film building properties on open surfaces and leaves a brown,waxy,water repellent film. This, I hope, prevent any further corrosion.
Now I have removed my fuel tank and this gives me the opportunity to clean the rust of the frame and under body. The frame looks pretty bad where the tank sits but surprisingly the underbody is in a very good condition. I used a grinder with a wire wheel to get the worsted off and the rest I have sprayed with Dinitrol RC900, which is very convenient as it comes in an aerosol can, it converts rust into a stable, black protective polymeric coating and can the painted over. Now I leave it to dry thoroughly.
The other day when I had my head under the LC I noticed the left hand spring was broken. Last year I installed new Pedders shock absorbers but never bothered to change the springs as well. The Pedders shocks are heavy duty but I’m not sure if this had anything to do with the broken spring. It seems to me not so long ago when I have installed the Old Man Emu springs but after I have checked the mileage on it, I discovered it was more then 50 000 miles. So they have not performed as badly as the LC is very often heavy laden and used offroad a lot.
It did not took very long for a new set of Pedders (7845) extra heavy duty springs to arrive and with a pair of Urethane 20mm Coil Spring Insulator which fit perfectly to it.
The Pedders springs are slightly higher than the OME’s and definitely stiffer but the diameter of the coil is still the same.
It took a bit an effort to install the new springs as they not compress very well but eventually I have succeeded. Pedders claim this springs are suited for constantly loaded vehicles but I plan to install an auxiliary tank in the near future, this is not an issue for me as Io will have plenty extra weight on the rear axle.
I hope the pedders coil springs perform so well as the OME’s. Only time will tell.
On my way home, suddenly the ABS and brake light came on. I checked the LC over but could not find any fault. Luckily it was not very far to go and I arrived safely at home.
It could only be the booster pump motor which failed, as I checked if the power was still on the connectors.
Access is very poor and to get the booster motor out, the hydraulic brake booster assembly had to be removed. Next question was where to get a replacement on a Friday afternoon as I have planned to drive the LC on Monday to the European Continent on holiday.
I phoned my local Toyota dealer and I’m told they could get the part for Saturday morning. I nearly dropped to the floor when they told me it will cost over £2000 for the motor and the accumulator. I’m sure I could get it cheaper elsewhere but not in this short time span.
I had no other choice and face the bill as this would be the only chance to continue with my holiday plans and using the Land Cruiser.
This is the whole assembly – hydraulic brake booster, booster pump motor and accumulator. I had to remove the panel and heater duct under the steering wheel to get access to the 4 bolts which connect the brake pedal to the assembly. Once everything is out it is fairly easy to disconnect the pump from the unit.
It is a simple way to check if the pump is broken. Connect the 2 terminals to a battery and the pump should work. This one did not.
This is the expensive new pump with the accumulator connected. Makes you wonder why it is so expensive.
When everything is installed, not much can be seen. Definitely not the work which is involved to get this part out. At least I have the LC back on the road again.
The Land Cruiser 100 series alarm system continually consumes a lot of power, so when the car is not in use for some time, this drains the batteries.
I had an idea to connect the car on shore power, similar to the marine environment, when the LC is parked up at the front of the house.
I required a specialist charger of which I can permanently fit into the LC, which is also built for harsh environments, and needed to be waterproof.
I purchased a Blue Power IP67 Battery Charger from Victron Energy as it is an Adaptive 4-stage charger (bulk, absorption, float and storage) of which is also maintenance free. I also bought IP68 plugs for the connections.
I added an extra connector to make bumper removal easier, when necessary.
Blue Power IP67 Battery Charger, designed to charge batteries 14-225 Ah (including a Start Interrupt Function)
A relay was added to prevent the car from starting whilst it is connected to power. This is an added bonus to prevent me driving off whilst connected.
This is the layout of the charger on the right hand side of the Engine Bay.
Connection on ARB front bumper.
RCD (Residual Current Device) on wall of house.
Voilà! Continuous charge!
After having a few cold and wet winter months, the weather finally improved enough to continue work on my LC.
Over the winter, when I charged the LC with my Ctek charger, I have noticed constant clicking noise on the relay for the auxiliary battery, as not enough power came from the charger, the relay opened and closed again. To prevent this I had to add a switch between the main battery’s and the Tmax relay.
A bracket was made up and bolted down between the Air filter housing and the Brake booster next to the Tmax relay.
I purchased the switch from a Marine Chandler, as it seems to me they are better and can handle up to 750 Amp for a short time.
The new installed Switch beside the relay.
I have used 25mm2 cable for the connection. After first test the switch worked a treat. Now I just need to remember to switch it off when required.
It started about 2 years ago, when I have noticed a view bubbles developing in the paint work of the right wing. I know soon or later I will have to do something about it. If I would have bothered a bit earlier I could save the wing with a bit of welding. Unfortunately I have left it to long and the best and probably the cheapest alternative was to buy a new wing. I ordered a new one at my local Toyota dealer and within 2 days I had the wing in my hands. Luckily the Girl from the shop noticed the new Wing was a bit bend on the corners and she has ordered a new one strait away. I have to admit the service at my dealer is fantastic. After another couple of days I received the wing, this time undamaged.
First job was to take the snorkel off to make a new template. I have lost he original template which was supplied with the gear.
To transfer and cutting out to the new wing was no bother at all.
As I want the replacement wing to last a bit longer as the old one. I had to protect the inner side of the wing and also the inner fender apron with corrosion inhibitor. For this I have used first DINITROL RC900S Rust Converter and after some drying time sprayed some DINITROL 3125 Cavity Wax.
Job done. Next step is to hand the LC over to the paint shop.