A day out in the Moors

I have spent again a day in the North Yorkshire Moors, near Kirkbymoorside, to test the Amazon’s new installed  ARB Locker with great success.

Light Force Lights

I have bought a pair of Light Force  240 Blitz Lights which have a long range of about 900 meters. The housing is made out of super strong polyamide and apparently indestructible. The lenses are made from hi-impact polycarbonate. With a 100 watt bulb the output is approx 730 000 candlepower.

My first impression was the lights looking a bit flimsy and very light but they are very strong and can be dropped on the floor without any hesitation. As the ARB Bumper has some brackets made for the lights, been the fitting was very easy and could be performed in a very short time.

I did not get the Light force wiring harness instead I have made my own and fitted  a 30 amp relay. The light switch came with the box and was another easy step for fitting it.

The light comes supplied as standard with a clear spot polycarbonate cover but can be exchanged with a combo or wide angle lens. Also different colors would be available.

Light Force Blitz 240

Light Force Lights

Light Force Light Switch

ARB Air locker

The Landcruiser 100 series with IFS is only with a Rear differential locker equipped. Unfortunately Toyota has left the front locker away, which, as proven by the 80 series is often very handy. For most users it is sufficient to have only the rear locker. If you want to go that little further it is recommended to get an aftermarket locker installed.

After a bit of research I have decided to go for an ARB Air locker and Air compressor for the front axle.

Unfortunately, it is impossible to install an air locker into the rear axle if the vehicle is already equipped with an electrical locker; this is due to the incorrect housing for it, which my LC has.

Personally, I would prefer to have the air lockers on both Axles.

I did not want to install the locker myself instead I opted to get it installed professionally from TBR UK in Harwich, which have done a great job.  The installation of the high output ARB Air compressor, which also can be used for other purposes, I did myself, as I was not sure where I would install all the parts, so this gave me time to think.

OME Front Differential

With the removal of the AHC Pump and reservoir I had plenty space left to use it for the compressor with extra connector

Empty Space

ARB Compressor

Air locker switches and compressor switch (Rear locking switch not in use)

Switches

Winch fitting

The T-max winch came supplied with all the fittings, cables and roller fairlead.

The fitting of the winch was easier then I predicted. The ARB Bumper comes with a winch cradle in its place. All I need to do was to bolt the winch on to it.

The cables from the winch body to the solenoid are very short and so I dot no have a variety of choices where to place it. The only way I could do it was to make a bracket on the left side of the winch so the connection came out of the top from the Bumper.

For the connection to the Battery I have used 25mm cable, which I believe is sufficient. I did not want to have the winch permanently connected to the Battery. The solution was a Battery switch which is strong enough to cope with the high current. I could find one at a marine chandlery, which sell switches, which can handle 750amp.

Winch Cradle

T-max Winch

Bumper Top

Roller Fairlead

Solenoid

Switch

Winch

After I have finished the Bumper, the next on my list was to go for an electric Winch. I have researched quite a bit; looking for different models but could not make a decision which one I should go.

Each one had its up and downs. As the Land cruiser is a very heavy vehicle, I did not want to go for an 8000 or 9000lbs winch. I would rather opt for 10 000 or 12 000lbs Winch.

There are plenty models on the Market and also in all price categories. At a 4×4 Show, I could see a lot of the different winches of which I had my eye on. With the ARB Bumper I was restricted to use only certain models so I could not use any Bridge winches. The Solenoid box need to be separated from the Winch and had to be mounted somewhere else on the vehicle.

T-max Winch

At the end, there were only 3 brands left. Warn, Superwinch and T-max. I believe Warn and Superwinch are excellent winches and definitely capable of going a long way.

The Warn winch had put me off, as they are very expensive. I believe that, if someone uses the winch on a regular basis it would be the winch to go for.

Superwinch would be great to, but they’re very heavy and weighs in at nearly 60kg.

Coincidently I could see an offer at my local Garage for T-max winches, which are from Australia.

T-max makes a lot different models up to 12500lbs (5665kg) and also an Outback series, which is apparently better protected, from the harsh environment that occurs in Australia.

I could get a very reasonably priced T-max 12500lbs outback series winch, which even includes a wireless remote control. The winch only weighs in about 43kg.

ARB Bumper

I never liked the original bumper on the Landcruiser. They are made from plastic, very low to the ground and ridiculously expensive if the need to be replaced. I spend some time to look for an alternative. My plan was to add a Winch to a later state. This has narrowed my choice and only two was left. TJM or ARB. I  ended up to go for the ARB Bumper  which is made in Australia and very well built. It took about four-month until I have received the parts.

I also ordered some ARB side rails which connect to the Bumper and also replaces the steps. The advantage of the steps are, they much higher of the ground and also made from steel tubular instead from the Landcruiser plastic.

To my surprise all the parts fitted very well, no extra drilling, apart from two holes which needed to be drilled after fitting the bumper to the vehicle.

The removal of the old bumper is a very easy job. Just a view bolts and the cover is of . Next is to remove the energy absorber which is made from polystyrene and at last the reinforcement bar. This has given me access to waxoil all the areas which I usually have no access. On top of the old bumper was the driving light washer connected which of course needed to be removed. and the pipes blocked off. I have not figured it out how I could fit the washer jets on to the new bumper.

First job is to fit the winch cradle on to the frame. The inter-cooler hose need to be removed to place the bolt trough the frame. I found it is much easier to fit the nuts on top of the frame instead on the bottom as written in the instruction. Next is to lift the bumper on to the Winch cradle. After a view attempts with some help from my neighbours to lift the bumper on to the cradle I preferred to do it on my own. The bumper just need to be lifted on to the cradle and will stay there. All the bolts can be fitted easily from the bottom. It is enough play in the holes to align the bumper perfectly. The next is to connect the wiring from the additional indicators on to the existing wiring. Everything was supplied.

The side steps has given me a bit a headache. Nothing wrong with the parts. It was about the remaining actuators and spheres from the hydraulic suspension system which I have left in place.  Unfortunately two of the actuators needed to be removed as it was in the way of the clamps which fit the steps on to the frame. The actuators has been bolted with three bolts on to the frame of the car. Two on the side and one on top of the frame. The top ones was the problem. Only about two to three centimeters space is left between the bolt head and  the body. I managed to round one of the bolts of and it took me about two days to get this one out.

Nobody can imagine how happy I was when I finally managed to remove the remaining pieces. To fit the “rock solid” side steps was no problem, just a matter of bolting the brackets on to the frame and bumper bars. I’m very impressed with the quality of all the parts.

OEM Bumper

Bumper Bar

Frame

Winch Cradle

Winch Cradle connected

ARB Bumper Front

Step removed

ARB Side Step

ARB Front and Side

Related Articles

• ARB full-year profit gains 44.8% (news.theage.com.au)

Safari Snorkel

The next on my list was to fit a Snorkel to the Car. There is various versions on the market but I decide to go for the Safari Snorkel SS130HF. In my opinion it is very stylish build and fit the  Car well. A large hole has to be cut in the right wing but as a template is provided it is not a big issue. Also the wing indicator  need a new cut out  lower down. The Wing on the Amazon is very roomy  and to fit  the connection pipe to the air inlet is very easy. I have made sure all the connections are tight and well sealed. Despite a lot of people suggest to seal the rubber valve on the air filter box I left my open as it is a none return valve and should not cause any problems.

I believe more water will go trough the air inlet on the snorkel then coming trough the rubber valve. At least any trapped water has a escape route in the filter box.

Safari Snorkel

Air inlet

Wing connection

Auxiliary Battery System

I could not place the aux. Battery under the seat as I had on the Isuzu. I had to find a new solution.  The advantage of the drawer system is, there is plenty of small compartments to fit additional equipment.  The compartment on the right seems to me ideally. I could get my Optima Yellow top 4.2 LU Battery, which I have used on the Isuzu, easy in to it. I could also fit the DC to AC Inverter (3000w peak, 1500w continuous) in to the space. I did not want to leave the socket on the Inverter. I moved the socket to the back for easy access and also to switch it on and off.  I placed the fuses on to the back to but still hidden out the way. At the moment I run 2x 12v DIN Socket, the Engel Fridge and the Inverter from the aux. Battery.

To access the Battery or Inverter I just have to move the lid out the way and for the fuses I have to remove a view screws, which is done in a matter of minutes.

Compartment

Aux. Battery

AC Socket

Drawer System

As I have mentioned before, I did not want to build my own drawer out of plywood or similar again. Instead I planned to go for the African Outback Drawer System. It is not the cheapest on the market, but very versatile and also includes a pull out Fridge slider.  After a lengthy wait I received all the parts and was very happy to discover nothing was missing or damaged. The drawer system is fairly heavy. It’s weight in about 90 kg but it is built to last. It is very easy to fit and can be done  in a couple of hours. The first step is to remove some lashing down fixing in the boot. No new holes need to be drilled. Some of the Bolts in the boot was a pain to remove as the protrude trough the bodywork  and has been badly corroded. With a bit help of WD40 I could get them out on the end. No new bolts for fixing on to the bodywork has been supplied. I had to use the old bolts again.

Fastening

Car Boot

Drawer Shell front

Drawer Shell back

Drawer right

Drawer left

Drawer System

Open Drawer

Suspension

I was never keen on the hydraulic suspension on the Landcruiser, so I planned to remove the AHC and replace with OME Nitrocharger Shocks and OME Torsion Bars.

Front: OME 133

Rear: OME 101

Torsion Bars: OME 303002

Heavy Duty Springs: OME 864 +400kg

My previous experience with Old Men Emu Shocks and Springs has made it easy for me to choose them again. The suspension is much harder when empty, but fully laden the difference is not that big anymore.

I have been told removing the AHC and replacing with ordinary suspension will have a negative impact on the Vehicle’s stability. I have tested the LC empty and also fully laden, I could not find any problems. In fact I prefer the way as it is now, as with the AHC it was a bit to spongy for me. The new shocks and springs gives me a ride height of about the same as I had with the old suspension on the highest level.

Old Men Emu Front Shock

Related Articles

• How to Choose Shock Absorbers (brighthub.com)